Fashion Design | Student Spotlight

mid-term enrolments

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MACKENZIE FOGG

FASHION DESIGN STUDENT

Mackenzie joined CAFA as an HSC Textiles & Design student in our mentoring program. She’s always known that she wanted a career in fashion and she’s set her sights on launching her own label. We’re super-excited to share her journey (so far) and we know there’s a LOT more to come for Mackenzie.

This basic bias cut fabric drape is part of Module 5, Draped Pattern Making in the Diploma course. Note the thread guidelines tacked into the fabric to ensure true bias is maintained.

CAFA: How did you learn to sew? 

MF: I started in Year 10 with the Duke of Edinburgh Award. I needed a supervisor and found a teacher who’d made wedding dresses — I sewed with her for two years. She’s retired now and I still visit her every Tuesday for a catch up.  

Mackenzie’s HSC major work. Not only was this beautiful detached train and bow designed by Mackenzie, the photography and photo composition is also her work.

CAFA: When did you become interested in fashion as a career? 

MF: I started drawing dresses in pre-school — I've never wanted to do anything else! I studied Textiles and Design in Years 10, 11 and 12 and did the HSC Mentoring program with CAFA. My Major Work was a four-piece wedding pants suit with a detachable train and reversible bodice. I wanted to create a set of garments that could continue to be worn as an eveningwear capsule after the wedding day.  I received a Band 6 and my work was shown in the Texstyle HSC exhibition. 

The HSC Texstyle exhibition display of Mackenzie’s work.

CAFA: What are you studying now? 

MF: I’m working on two separate qualifications — a Diploma of Fashion Design & Garment Production at CAFA as a part time student and a Bachelor of Business (Fashion & Global Brand Management) at ICMS as a full-time student. I’ll finish the degree in August this year and will then study full-time to complete my Diploma at CAFA.   

This top is reversible, black on one side and ivory on the other. It is part of Mackenzie’s passion for versatile capsule wardrobes.

CAFA: Why did you decide to enrol in two courses? 

MF: I started at CAFA as the Diploma is a good fit with my main career interests — in practical, hands-on design and construction. My family has a small business background and I’d planned to do a business course after I finished my Diploma to help me establish my own business. I received a scholarship from ICMS and as CAFA has flexible course attendance, I realised I could do both at the same time. 

This classic bow tie blouse - a sample made from donated fabric - with a set in sleeve is part of the Module 1 and Module 2 Pattern Making program. The secret is to use a matt fabric so the bow stays done up and of course there is a trick to tying a perfect bow.

CAFA: How have you managed to attend both courses? 

MF: I study three days a week at uni and two days at CAFA per week (more during my uni holidays).   I do my uni assignments on the weekends and sometimes work in the family business. The CAFA Diploma lets me work at my own pace with no set homework. This way I can finish my education sooner.   

This was an experiment for Mackenzie’s mother. Two second-hand coats were joined together - time-consuming, but it’s s a great result.

CAFA: What have you learned from the CAFA course? 

MF: Pattern making and garment construction knowledge, couture finishing techniques and proper garment fit. I love draped pattern making as I can see my creations unfolding. I've also learnt about design and colour, how to design for different body types and how to alter existing garments for a better fit. I want well sewn finishes for my collections! 

A beautiful cowl neck top that is covered in both in flat and draped pattern making Modules in the diploma.

Tools of the trade.

CAFA: Have you had any internships? 

MF: My first internship was with the ICONIC. Interestingly, it started in Fashion Planning & Buying, but I ended up with the design team because of my fitting knowledge from my CAFA Diploma studies.  

I’m currently doing an internship with DIOR in Visual Merchandising for stores and events and I’m really enjoying it. I’ve been able to put into practice the design and colour theory from my Diploma. 

Mackenzie wearing one of her favorite designers. Watch this space!

CAFA: What do you want to do in your career in fashion? 

MF. I want to establish a brand producing quality clothing. My main interest is in eveningwear, but I'm frustrated by the lack or quality, choice and consistency in other areas. I like capsule dressing and would also like to produce more casual dresses that can be amped up for eveningwear. My ethos is about owning fewer, higher quality garments. 

CAFA: We wish you all the best with your career - but somehow, we don’t think you’ll need it : )

Advanced Sewing | Student Spotlight

BEVERLEY THIRKELL

ADVANCED SEWING PROJECTS

We’re thrilled to share the sewing journey of Bev Thirkell — one of our most advanced and prolific students at CAFA. She’s produced so many stunning and polished garments that she finds a joy to wear.

Bev’s pink structured silk pique mother-of-the-bride dress.

CAFA: How did you learn to sew? 

BT: My grandmother — Alice — worked as a seamstress for Sir Neville and Georgina Bowman-Shaw of Toddington Manor* in Bedfordshire, UK. When I was about 9 or 10, she taught me to sew on her Singer treadle sewing machine and my first project was an apron.   

Even advanced sewists can improve their pattern making and sewing techniques.

CAFA: How would you rate your skill level when you started with us?

BT: Although I was an advanced sewist, I lacked the finishing techniques for truly polished garments. My wedding dress — made during the Princess Diana era — gained a rose for every mistake I made. It ended up looking like a decorated cake. Definitely room for improvement! 

This cotton sateen dress with fabric designed by a textile artist was created by draping on the dress form. There wasn’t enough of this beautiful fabric to match patterns at centre front but look at the beautiful harmony created by the the placement of the pattern pieces.

CAFA: What did you hope to learn when you started? 

BT: I wanted to design my own garments and learn pattern making from scratch. Commercial patterns didn’t always suit my style and after a couple of broken bones and the changes that came with middle age, they often needed adjustments to fit comfortably. 

The beautiful drape of this skirt is enhanced by self godets which create the flared tulip shape. While most of Bev’s wardrobe is made from natural fibres, this polyester skirt has it’s place - it’s easy care and it can be dressed up or down with shoes and accessories to make it perfect for casual or work wear.

CAFA: Have you padded a dress form to your personal measurements? 

BT: Yes! It’s brilliant as it evolves with my mature shape.  

A classic, bespoke woollen coat that will last a lifetime. Seen here on Bev’s custom padded dress form, this classic style has been proportioned to her figure. The buttons provide creativity and individuality (the second button is concealed on the inside of the garment).

CAFA: How has your time with CAFA improved your skills? 

BT: Most of all, accuracy, accuracy and accuracy! It makes a huge difference to everything from ease of sewing, finish and fit.  

I’ve learnt to how to fit garments to my body — especially my shoulder area where I’ve broken bones — and now understand where and why standard sizing didn’t work for me.  

These trousers are a lovey addition to a casual wardrobe. The striped pair are made from polyester fabric from Spotlight.

BT: Using the same fitting principles, I’ve made a bespoke jacket for my husband and dresses for my daughter. I’ve also learnt many couture sewing techniques that take my garments up a notch in terms of quality and appearance. 

I really enjoy draping a pattern on my dress form and prefer it to flat pattern making. It’s more visual and I can be more creative and I can change the design as I go. 

This Thai silk shirt was made from fabric donated to the studio. Note the beautiful pattern matching down the centre front and the careful overall placement of the fabric pattern.

BT: I now have the skills to successfully replicate my favourite garments and make adjustments to vintage patterns for a modern fit.  

I’ve got a much better understanding of the tools I need for more polished results — hams, pressing aids, scissor types and sewing equipment — and have created a dedicated sewing space to use them. 

Bev’s grandmother — Alice — in the wedding dress she likely made herself.

CAFA: What types of garments have you sewn with us? 

BT: Pretty much everything! A mother-of-the-bride dress, eveningwear, dresses, skirts, pants, blouses and shirts, jackets (including a jeans jacket) and coats. 

*Parts of Toddington Manor date back to 1562. My grandmother did all the invisible mending for the household (an art in itself), as well as making clothes for the family’s children.

CAFA: We have a range of specialised Advanced Sewing Classes (including Tailoring, French Jacket, Couture Sewing, Lace or Leather Skirts and Personalised Dress Form) as well as an Advanced Dressmaking Class for any garment made from a commercial pattern.

*Parts of Toddington Manor date back to 1562. My grandmother did all the invisible mending for the household (an art in itself), as well as making clothes for the family’s children.